Prague: Pt. 2

It has been a crazy week of transition. Adjusting to a new place, currency, and language – the sum of it all has left me little time to write a blog post. But now we are settled in France, and you will be caught up on everything shortly.

In the meantime: Back to Prague!

Our second full day in Prague, Jacob and I decided to cross the Vltava River that splits Prague in half. The city is well known for the many beautiful bridges that span the river – the most famous of which is Charles’ Bridge. 

The bridge is old, beautiful, and provides wonderful views of the city, but the real fun, as we had been informed, was playing “Spot the Pickpocket”.

Unfortunate though it is, Prague is home to many gangs of pickpockets who prey on unsuspecting tourists. (If you plan on visiting Prague don’t be deterred: simply using common sense should save you from any trouble.) In the meantime, you get to go pickpocket hunting. They are surprisingly easy to spot. Shady looking men, who are clearly not tourists, shuffle around crowded areas, gazing intently at groups of people gawking up at buildings or studying maps. Come on pickpockets – could you be any less subtle?

Anyways, avoiding the pickpockets, Jacob and I made our way over to the other side of the river to make a trek up Petrin Hill. Petrin Hill is a large public park that boasts an incredible view of the city from the top, along with an observatory, monastery, and (oddly enough) a miniature Eiffel Tower.

The view was spectacular. 

As was the beer brewed by the monks at the monastery on Petrin Hill. Probably some of the best we had in Prague – and that’s saying a lot. 

Aside from its bridges, Prague is also well known for beer. I can’t claim to be particularly devoted to beer, but my goodness. Prague was poised to change my mind. The beer was plentiful, cheap, and delicious. We drank a lot of beer in Prague (well – a lot of beer for us… which isn’t saying much).

Jacob and I headed to a nearby alehouse for lunch, and after perusing the menu, settled on a plate of Brawn. We did not know what it was, but we had been assured that it was meat, and it was included in the local specialties.

We received this. 

As it turns out, Brawn is another word for Head Cheese:  various bits of pork meat scraped from head, and bound together with gelatin. Flavorful, but not the most appealing texture.  Luckily, we had these to help wash it down. 

After lunch we went to check out the castle, and spent more time wandering through the streets. 

That evening we went to State Opera House to watch a performance of the ballet Giselle. We had picked up two tickets for an incredibly cheap $15 USD.  The ballet was incredible, the music was flawless, and the theater was breath taking. Apparently in Prague, a cheap ticket doesn’t mean you will be showing up for amateur hour.

The next day we left Prague for what turned out to be one of the most memorable connecting flights of our time so far. Stay tuned!

Prague: Pt. 1

Jacob and I landed in Prague on Monday afternoon after a grueling trek from Sweden that involved dragging our luggage across three different kinds of public transportation. Exhausted, and immensely frustrated that we packed so much crap in the first place (more on that in another post), we dropped off all our stuff and went to take our first bleary-eyed look at Prague.

We saw this.

We were amazed. And overwhelmed by the enormous crowds of tourists.  Unable to process much, we walked until we thought our feet would fall off, and decided to call it a night.

The next morning we started bright and early to catch a free guided tour of the city. Caveat: normally I despise tours. I hate being picked out as a tourist; I love being taken for a local. Being herded around a city with a large group of people gawking up at buildings is NOT my idea of fun. That being said, this tour was awesome.

Our tour guide was a young British expat who spoke and looked like Austin Powers. He was very knowledgeable, an engaging speaker, and had a penchant for acting out historical events a la Eddie Izzard.  Awesome.

Beyond that, it became abundantly clear how few details I knew about Prague. It is amazing how a pretty building can transform when you know the stories it has to tell. I have to swallow my pride and admit that guided tours can actually be a really great thing.

Prague is comprised of a mish-mash of architectural styles that makes for a very visually diverse city. It’s a pretty impressive thing to find Baroque, Art Deco, Communist Functionalism, and Cubism all in one glance. If you are not an architecture buff it means this: Lots of pretty things to look at.

Like this, the only Cubist lamp post in the world. 

In the evening, Jacob and I wandered back to the area of our apartment and into a local park. Hoping to just have a nice walk, we stumbled instead onto a popular local hangout spot. Groups of students studded the grass, all with their ½ liter cups of beer in hand, watching the sunset over an incredible view of the city.

Not wanting to be left out, we got our own beer (Czech beer: two thumbs way up), and joined them.

To Be Continued...

Stockholm

A couple of weeks ago, a friend from college sent us a message out of the blue. It went something like this: "Hey! It's been a while! I hear you are in Sweden - my family lives in Stockholm, you should come visit!".

Needless to say, we jumped on the opportunity, excited to see a friend as well as get an insider's tour of Stockholm.

So on Thursday morning we took the train to Stockholm and were met by our lovely friend Siobhan.

She took us back to her family's apartment, but the word "apartment" doesn't really do it justice. As it turns out her father is a foreign service Diplomat, working at the American Embassy in Sweden. (Actually, he has the exact same job title as my Grandfather - except my Grandfather worked in other countries and back in the 1950's-1970's. It's hugely exciting for Jacob and I, given our deep interest and fascination with the State Department and all things related to Embassies.)

One of the perks of the job is that the Embassy provides you with housing. Nice housing. Housing that is good for entertaining lots of important people (and housing the odd traveler or two).

I'm in heaven here.

Then we went on a walk around Stockholm. It rained.

Jacob and I love Stockholm. It's easy to get around by walking, public transportation, or biking. There is even a wide two-way bike lane on the side of every major road. There are lots of beautiful buildings, and little districts that we can wander in and explore.

By default of our hosts, Jacob and I were invited to a casual barbeque at the American Ambassador's residence.

The Ambassador's residence.

Jacob and I rubbed elbows with Diplomats and Embassy staff, wandered around the gorgeous (embassy provided) 1930's era mansion, and had a long conversation with the Ambassador. (He even commended Jacob and I for our travels, and we got to tell him about my Grandparent's Diplomatic work in the Cold War).

Shall I repeat myself? I'm in heaven. In a dream. And so grateful for this totally un-sought-after and  once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to glimpse into the life of the Foreign Service. It's been incredible so far.

I Want You To Know

I want you to know that Jacob and I are really cool, super attractive, artsy, creative, and perfect in just about every way.

I mean, obviously.

But seriously. I've always hated the blogs where people give off the carefully calculated impression that their life is perfect. That is blatantly untrue. It can't be true, because no one's life is perfect, even when you are traveling the world and taking pretty pictures (like the one above).

As amazing as travel is - the thrill of new places and cultures, the beauty of new sights, the experience of new foods - it can all give way very easily to a sense of restlessness. Homesickness. Purposelessness. (Not sure if that is a word). Living out a dream still has it's ups and downs.

So, now that we are on the same page regarding our awesomeness, here are some pictures.

Thursday evening our hosts threw a little party for all of their house guests. (Besides us, there was family visiting from Washington D.C.). In Sweden there is a traditional summer celebration meal: The Crayfish Feast.

The Crayfish Feast is held in August to mark the beginning of crayfish season. The crayfish are served cold after being boiled in vinegar, dill, and other good stuff. They are traditionally served with Aquavit - a caraway-infused vodka (really good - tastes sort of like whiskey). I couldn't believe it when I saw the platter of crayfish - they looked like plastic.

After our first course of crayfish and vodka, we moved on to another traditional Swedish meal: Pickled Herring.

Pickled Herring is right up there next to Swedish Meatballs on the scale of All-Things-Swedish. It is fish which has been preserved in a vinegary-sugary brine, sometimes with a sauce like honey mustard. It is served with boiled potatoes, red onion, and sour cream. All together it's very good.

To further our education, we learned some traditional Swedish drinking songs. I can't actually sing the words for you, but I can follow along the tune while making convincing Swede-like noises.

On Friday Jacob and I took the bicycles 4 km. out to a nearby lake. It was my turn to take the little yellow bike, the same bicycle that Jacob had taken 20 km. to Skinnskatteberg just a few days earlier. Little did I know - that bike is the two-wheel equivalent of a clown car. I barely made it to the lake, hunched over a bicycle intended for someone a foot shorter than me. I still can't figure out how Jacob made it 20 km.

It rained on us just as we got to the lake, but cleared up fairly quickly.

A picture cannot do it justice.
Now please comment and tell us how cool we are.

The Food Issue

This post is going to have a lot of pictures of food. If you are feeling a bit hungry, I suggest you go find a snack now.

Much of the past two days have been spent in the garden or the kitchen. On Wednesday Jacob and I switched jobs. I took on the manual labor, while he put on the apron and baked in the kitchen.

It was challenging, but digging flower beds in the garden and transplanting trees was fun and (sort of) empowering. Meanwhile, Jacob was in the kitchen, baking up a storm and having a blast. Jacob got the extra satisfaction of selling a number of his confections that day in the cafe (with compliments to the chef!).

First I will show you my favorite stool in the kitchen. It's my favorite because: 1. It's pretty, 2. It's handy, and 3. I stand on it or use it several times a day to take pictures of food that we made, foraged, or dug up in the garden. You will be seeing it a lot.

The Stool

This stool is a good example of our role in the kitchen: Apprentice. We are learning to run the cafe the way Amy does, which means we do a good amount of watching and listening before we can jump in. But when we do jump in, we get to make some pretty awesome stuff.

Key Lime Pie

Chocolate Cupcake

Homemade Bread

Once we were done with work, Jacob and I decided to bike into the closest town of Skinskatteberg - 10 km bike ride each way. It was a very pleasant bike ride - mostly flat, with beautiful views of fields and forest and storm clouds on the horizon. Once we arrived in town, we found a train station, a church, a grocery store and one town square. That's about it. Tiny.

Regardless, it was nice to be in a town for the first time in a week.

Today consisted of more baking and digging in the garden - but this time Jacob and I worked together. Since the summer season in Sweden is winding down, Amy has tasked us with working through her garden to harvest vegetables and find creative ways to preserve them for the winter. For obvious reasons, I'm thrilled with this job. The first thing we harvested were garlic and potatoes. For a mid-size garden, the variety and quantity of vegetables in those beds is constantly surprising.

The Daily Crop of Salads

Garlic, Beets, and Carrots from the Garden

In the afternoon Jacob and I went for a walk through the woods and found a treasure trove of mushrooms called Summer Chanterelles. We had heard from Amy that they could be found everywhere this time of year if you just knew the right type of forest to look in. Jacob and I had been searching for them on every walk we had taken, and now we have finally found the right forest. We stuffed the huge pockets of my coat with the mushrooms, and took them home with us.

Summer Chanterelles

Tonight we are going to participate in a traditional Swedish summer celebration - the Crayfish Feast. Jacob and I have been really looking forward to this. I'll tell you how it is in a couple days!